Custom Cut For Optimal Performance
At Bijou Lab, all of our oval diamonds are specially created with select cutting patterns that minimize or completely eliminate the bow-tie effect that is associated with the standard oval cut.
Read more about our specialty cuts below.
Standard Cut vs. Astral Cut
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The Standard Bow-Tie Oval Cut
The vast majority of oval diamonds on the market are cut with 58 facets (57 if there is no culet facet) because they are modeled directly after the faceting of the traditional round brilliant.
When the traditional round brilliant cutting pattern is stretched out to fill the silhouette of an oval, it creates a horizontal area of darkness in the midline of the diamond that looks like two triangles meeting at their points in the center, resembling a bow-tie.
Many consumers wish to minimize or eliminate this effect. Ovals (and other non-round shapes) cut in the standard 8 main brilliant faceting pattern will always exhibit a bow tie shape in the center; that patterning is simply inherent to the cut, and isn’t necessarily a defect or a result of poor cutting. It's merely that the cut was optimized for a different shape.
Since light return is considered one of the most important determinants of diamond performance and beauty, we are excited to offer custom faceting patterns for our ovals that minimize or eliminate the bow-tie effect.
The Astral Cut
This faceting pattern is custom cut with larger pavilion facets which minimizes or eliminates the bow tie effect while maximizing brilliance, fire and scintillation for a truly exceptional display of light return.
This design create a vivid and dazzling sparkle and reflect light through the center of the stone for a brighter overall face-up appearance.
The Constellation Cut
This cutting pattern virtually eliminates the bow tie effect and increases sparkle through the addition of facets on the pavilion. This cut has incredibly bright sparkle throughout the entirety of the stone.
Consistent and symmetrical facet size is considered a desirable trait in a diamond; it creates symmetry and balance throughout the stone and gives the optimal aesthetic appeal.
These bow-tie free cuts exhibit exemplary displays of brightness throughout the entire stone, especially the center where elongated cuts can often be lacking.
How To Get a Custom Cut Diamond For Your Engagement Ring
Every Bijou Lab Diamond Is Expertly Hand Selected
We custom cut and hand select ALL of our diamonds to ensure our clients are receiving the most premium stone possible. When you order a ring, you will receive a highly curated diamond, selected to minimize or eliminate bow tie and to fit perfectly with your setting choice.
Our diamonds are guaranteed completely colorless D or E color, and eye-clean VVS or VS1 clarity with an emphasis on cut quality as the highest priority as it is the biggest determinant of beauty at this high of a color/clarity level.
All of our ring purchases include an expert curation service where our founder and diamond expert, Michelle, hand selects the ideal diamond to ensure that it meets the highest standards for excellence. The diamond is selected for the exact setting that it is going into, with regards to a multitude of factors including but not limited to: the number of prongs, prong placement, setting style, ring size, band width, presence or absence of side stones and of course, client preference. Our stones are always ordered to be custom cut in objectively balanced ratios; if you have a request for a wider or skinnier stone ratio, please reach out to us via email to see if we can accommodate!
*While we are not always able to accommodate requests for an exact cutting pattern in every stone size or ratio, if there is a particular cut you’d like to request, please send us an email PRIOR to ordering to discuss your request. Custom cuts are subject to availability; we do not always have every faceting pattern available in every size as these cuts are very highly requested. We are constantly producing new stones but they take 2-3 months for production and certification and so we occasionally sell out of the specialty cuts! If that is the case, you will receive a hand-selected standard cut, curated to minimize the bow-tie effect.
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