Custom Cut For Optimal Performance
At Bijou Lab, we custom cut and source our oval diamonds with select cutting patterns that minimize or completely eliminate the bow-tie effect that is associated with the standard oval cut.
Read more about our specialty cuts below.
Standard Cut vs. Astral Cut
Slide to see the difference
Before
After
The Standard Bow-Tie Oval Cut
The vast majority of oval diamonds on the market are cut with 58 facets (57 if there is no culet facet) because they are modeled directly after the faceting of the traditional round brilliant.
When the traditional round brilliant cutting pattern is stretched out to fill the silhouette of an oval, it creates a horizontal area of darkness in the midline of the diamond that looks like two triangles meeting at their points in the center, resembling a bow-tie.
Many consumers wish to minimize or eliminate this effect. Ovals (and other non-round shapes) cut in the standard 8 main brilliant faceting pattern will always exhibit a bow tie shape in the center; that patterning is simply inherent to the cut, and isn’t necessarily a defect or a result of poor cutting. It's merely that the cut was optimized for a different shape.
Since light return is considered one of the most important determinants of diamond performance and beauty, we are excited to offer custom faceting patterns for our ovals that minimize or eliminate the bow-tie effect.
The Astral Cut
This faceting pattern is custom cut with larger pavilion facets which minimizes or eliminates the bow tie effect while maximizing brilliance, fire and scintillation for a truly exceptional display of light return.
The larger cuts create a vivid and dazzling sparkle and reflect light through the center of the stone for a brighter overall face-up appearance.
The Constellation Cut
This cutting pattern virtually eliminates the bow tie effect and increases sparkle through the addition of facets on the pavilion. This cut has incredibly bright sparkle throughout the entirety of the stone.
Consistent and symmetrical facet size is considered a desirable trait in a diamond; it creates symmetry and balance throughout the stone and gives the optimal aesthetic appeal.
These bow-tie free cuts exhibit exemplary displays of brightness throughout the entire stone, especially the center where elongated cuts can often be lacking.
How To Get a Custom Cut Diamond For Your Engagement Ring
Every Bijou Lab Diamond Is Highly Curated
We custom cut or hand select ALL of our diamonds to ensure our clients are receiving the most premium stone possible. When you order a ring, you will receive a highly curated diamond, selected to minimize or eliminate bow tie and to fit perfectly with your setting choice.
Our diamonds are premium D or E color, VVS or VS1 clarity with an emphasis on cut quality as the highest priority.
Despite having different facets size and placement, the two cuts can appear similar due to the creation of virtual facets. Virtual facets are a product of the interaction of the real facets that act like mirrors and make it look like there are more facets on the diamond. Their virtual faceting pattern can make these cuts look alike, and so we encourage clients not to worry should they not be able to distinguish the difference between the two, as we strongly believe the most important factor when selecting a diamond is its brightness, sparkle and overall performance and appeal.
While we are not always able to accommodate requests for an exact cutting pattern in every stone size or ratio, if there is a particular cut you’d like to request, please send us an email PRIOR to ordering to discuss your request.
Custom cuts are subject to availability; we do not always have every faceting pattern available in every size as these cuts are very highly requested. We are constantly producing new stones but they take 2 months for production and certification and so we sometimes sell out of the specialty cuts! If that is the case, you will receive a hand-selected standard cut, curated to minimize the bow-tie effect.
Frequently Asked Questions
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