Custom Cut For Optimal Performance
At Bijou Lab, our oval, marquise and pear diamonds are custom cut for us in select faceting patterns that minimize or completely eliminate the bow-tie effect that is associated with the standard elongated brilliant cut.
Read more about our specialty cuts below.
cut comparison
Save the bowtie for your wedding
The Standard Bow-Tie Oval Cut
The vast majority of oval diamonds on the market are cut with 58 facets (57 if there is no culet facet) because they are modeled directly after the faceting of the traditional round brilliant.
When the traditional round brilliant cutting pattern is stretched out to fill the silhouette of an oval, it creates a horizontal area of darkness in the midline of the diamond that looks like two triangles meeting at their points in the center, resembling a bow-tie.
Many consumers wish to minimize or eliminate this effect. Ovals, marquise and pears cut in the standard brilliant faceting pattern will always exhibit a bow tie shape in the center; that patterning is simply inherent to the cut, and isn’t necessarily a defect or a result of poor cutting. It's merely that the cut was optimized for a round brilliant (and not elongated shapes).
Since light return is considered one of the most important determinants of diamond performance and beauty, we are excited to offer custom faceting patterns for our ovals, marquise and pears that minimize or eliminate the bow-tie effect and optimize light performance.
The Astral Cut
This faceting pattern is custom cut with larger pavilion facets which minimizes or eliminates the bow tie effect while maximizing brilliance, fire and scintillation for a truly exceptional display of light return.
This design create a vivid and dazzling sparkle and reflect light through the center of the stone for a brighter overall face-up appearance. It is more similar to the standard cut than a Constellation cut in its proportions and has nice depth and contrast.
The Constellation Cut
This cutting pattern virtually eliminates the bow tie effect and increases sparkle through the addition of facets on the pavilion. This cut has very bright and even sparkle throughout the entirety of the stone.
Consistent and symmetrical facet size is considered a desirable trait in a diamond; it creates symmetry and balance throughout the stone and gives the optimal aesthetic appeal. It is considered a modified brilliant cut and is cut with slightly deeper proportions in order to eliminate the bow tie completely.
These bow-tie free cuts exhibit exemplary displays of brightness throughout the entire stone, especially the center where elongated cuts can often be lacking.
Expert Diamond Curation
All of our ring purchases include an expert curation service where our founder and diamond expert, Michelle, hand selects the ideal diamond to ensure that it meets the highest standards for excellence. The diamond is selected for the exact setting that it is going into, with regards to a multitude of factors including but not limited to: the diamond cuts proportions, the number of prongs, prong placement, setting style, ring size, band width, and the presence or absence of side stones. Our stones are always custom cut in very strict balanced ratios; if you have specific diamond requirements you'd like to have met, please reach out to us via email!
Diamond Parameters
Every Bijou Lab Diamond Is Expertly Hand Selected
We custom cut and hand select ALL of our diamonds to ensure our clients are receiving the most premium stone possible. When you order a ring, you will receive a highly curated diamond, selected to minimize or eliminate bow tie and to fit perfectly with your setting choice.
Diamond Parameters:
Color: D or E (completely colorless)
Clarity: VVS1-VS1 (eye-clean)
Our diamonds are guaranteed completely colorless D or E color, and completely eye-clean VVS or VS1 clarity (meaning you cannot see any inclusions with the naked eye) with an emphasis on cut quality as the highest priority as it is the biggest determinant of beauty at this high of a color/clarity level.
Ratio Parameters:
Oval: 1.40-1.50
Marquise: 1.85-2.0
Pear: 1.50-1.60
We keep very strict parameters for what we will accept in regards to diamond ratio. As we are curating the diamond for you, we are very committed to ensuring that the ratios are perfectly balanced and will suit the number of prongs and side stones in your setting.
*If there is a particular cut, color, clarity, ratio or faceting pattern you’d like to request, please send us an email PRIOR to ordering to discuss your request. If we have it in stock, we'd be more than happy to accommodate your requests. Since the stones are cut 2-3 months in advance, our in-house diamond inventory changes on a day to day bases.
Standard Cut vs. Astral Cut
Slide to see the difference
Before
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Frequently Asked Questions
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